FingerTech tinyESC v2
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FingerTech tinyESC v2

Price: 34.46 CAD
25.76 USD 22.14 EUR
In Stock: 95

FingerTech tinyESCs pack the most power into the smallest package!  Don't sacrifice space and weight on bulky motor controllers - tinyESCs are what the champions use!

• Bi-directional brushed motor controller.
• Ultra-compact and lightweight.
• Undervoltage, overcurrent, overtemp protection.
• Internal BEC (battery eliminator circuit) provides 5V to receiver - no extra receiver battery required!
• Calibrate function allows precision driving.
• Status LEDs for both directions and calibration.

These speed controllers are perfectly matched to our own line of Gold Spark and Silver Spark motors, Copals, Sanyos, B16s, B62s, Kitbots 1000RPM, etc.  For the short operating times of robots, anything up to 5A stall can be run by tinyESCs.

Install MiniQD Connectors?
Yes (+2.93 CAD)
No
Quantity:
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  • Description
  • Specifications
  • Operation
  • Videos
  • CAD Files
  • Reviews
  • Related
Version 2.6:  A code re-write from the bottom up has things running faster and smoother, with a more intuitive Calibration routine.
FingerTech tinyESCs pack the most power into the smallest package! They take up very little space but can handle more than enough motor current for your robots.
Version 2.5 does away with the calibration header and jumper.  Now, to enter the calibrate routine at any time you simply short the calibrate pads.  Short them once again when you are done and the routine saves and exits!
Version 2.4 introduced backwards-polarity protection - plugging a battery in backwards will not destroy a tinyESC! There is also now protection on the 5V receiver line so that other BECs will not affect the tinyESC - no need to disconnect the red wire anymore!

Features:
- Bi-directional brushed motor controller.
- Ultra-compact and lightweight.
- Undervoltage, overcurrent, overtemp reverse-polarity, and BEC protection.
- Internal BEC (battery eliminator circuit) provides 5V to receiver - no extra receiver battery required!
- Calibrate function allows precision driving.
- Status LEDs for both directions and calibration.


 Wiring Diagram



*The tinyESC includes a Battery Eliminator Circuit. If there is no 5V supply present on the robot, this will power the radio receiver from the main battery.  There is a blocking diode in v2.4 and higher, so multiple tinyESC BECs can be run at once, along with one non-tinyESC BEC (like in a weapon motor controller).
*If you are controlling the tinyESC from a powered device (like Arduino, etc), there is now no worry about damaging the tinyESC from higher voltages.
*Includes 0.01uF capacitor.  Solder between motor leads to filter motor noise and voltage spikes.  (Not required for FingerTech Spark motors - they are high quality and do not generate dangerous voltage spikes.)


SERVO Magazine Reviews:
SERVO-2010-12-tinyESC-review.pdf
SERVO-2014-11-tinyESCv2.4-review.pdf


Specifications:
Battery Voltage: 6.5V - 36V
Motor Current: 1.5A continuous (forever). For robots, usable continuous current is 2.0A.
Max Current: 3A. For robots though, 5A-stall motors are easily handled by tinyESCs (see Videos tab).
BEC Output: 5V, 100mA (can run other electronics like receivers and other ESCs, but not motors or servos. Receivers with telemetry require a stronger/separate BEC.)
BEC current is reduced for voltage above 8V - see graph: BEC Derating Graph.
Frequency: 1953Hz (v2.6 and above), 976Hz (v2.5 and below).
Motor is braked to stop rather than coasting. This gives precision motor control, crucial for robot drive!
Available with MiniQD Connectors installed - these clip onto motor terminals (Spark and other FK050 motors) and eliminate the need for soldering!

 Motors that our customers regularly run off a single tinyESC:
- 2 Gold/Silver Sparks 16mm up to 18.5V
- 2 Maxons 13mm up to 18.5V
- 3 BotBitz/Pololu/Sanyo 12mm
- 1 Kitbots 1000RPM 25mm up to 11.1V (needs capacitor)
- 1 B16 22mm up to 11.1V (2.5A stall)
- 1 B62 22mm up to 11.1V (5A stall)
- 1 BotKits 22mm up to 11.1V (5A stall)
*Note: Multiple motors on a single tinyESC can not be independently controlled. A standard drive would require 1 ESC per side, driving 1-3 motors each.

Dimensions:
Circuit board size: 1.27x1.27x0.41cm (0.5x0.5x0.16”)
Outer heatshrink size: 1.35x1.85x0.48cm (0.53x0.73x0.19”) - calibration pins have been changed from male to female in v2.4 and removed entirely in v2.5 to reduce length and fragility
Weight with wires: 3.7grams (0.14oz)
Weight without wires: 0.6grams (0.02oz) [We don't know why you would ever need weight without wires, but other companies seem to think it's a selling point, so here it is to compare with!]

Currently there are three two known ways to destroy a tinyESC. (So avoid them!)
1) Reverse battery voltage. Not anymore!
2) Applying battery voltage to the motor outputs.
3) Voltage spikes from noisy motors (not using the included capacitor). High-efficiency motors like Maxon brand can create voltage spikes on reversing so the capacitor is needed on those as well.
-FingerTech Spark motors are not noisy and do not need the capacitor.


R/C StickArduino PulseMotor OutputLED status
Full Forward2000µsFull ForwardSolid Green
Forward1510-2000µsForwardFlashing Green
Centered1500µs
(+/-10µs deadband)
OffR2.6: Both LEDs on solid
R2.5: Either LED Could Flash
Backward1000-1490µsBackwardFlashing Red
Full Backward1000µsFull BackwardSolid Red
No R/C SignalNo Pulse StreamOff (Failsafe)Slow Blinking Red

Reset to Defaults
V2.5, V2.6 - To revert to default calibration, do the below steps without moving the transmitter stick at all.
V2.4 - To revert to default calibration, do the below steps with the tinyESC unplugged from the receiver.

V2.6 Calibration - The tinyESC comes pre-calibrated with defaults that match the 1000-1500-2000µs of most radios, but if you wish to change the limits or center position:
1) Plug tinyESC into the radio receiver.
2) Power up the tinyESC.
3) Briefly short the two tinyESC Calibrate pads with anything metal. After removing the short, the Red and Green LEDs will alternate flashing indicating calibration. (see image)
4) Move transmitter stick to high and low limits.
5) Return transmitter stick to center.
6) Briefly short the two tinyESC Calibrate pads again to save the settings and exit the Calibration routine.
A successful calibration will flash the Green LED three times. If the Red LED flashes three times instead, the defaults have been restored.
The center position is now “motor off” with full forward and full reverse speeds at the upper and lower limits.
*You may calibrate multiple tinyESCs at once (as in channel mixing).

V2.5 Calibration - The tinyESC comes pre-calibrated with defaults that match the 1000-1500-2000µs of most radios, but if you wish to change the limits or center position:
1) Plug tinyESC into the radio receiver.
2) Power up the tinyESC.
3) Briefly short the two tinyESC Calibrate pads with anything metal. After removing the short, the Red LED will turn on solid indicating calibration. (see image)
4) Move transmitter stick to high and low limits.
5) Return transmitter stick to center.
6) Briefly short the two tinyESC Calibrate pads again to save the settings and exit the Calibration routine.
The center position is now “motor off” with full forward and full reverse speeds at the upper and lower limits.
*You may calibrate multiple tinyESCs at once (as in channel mixing).

V2.4 Calibration - The tinyESC comes pre-calibrated with defaults that match the 1000-1500-2000µs of most radios, but if you wish to change the limits or center position:
1) Plug tinyESC into unpowered radio receiver.
2) Jumper the two tinyESC Calibrate pins with any piece of wire. (see image)  
3) Power up tinyESC. The green LED will go solid. If not solid, cycle power.
4) Move transmitter stick to high and low limits.
5) Return transmitter stick to center.
6) Remove the jumper.
The center position is now “motor off” with full forward and full reverse speeds at the upper and lower limits.
*You may calibrate multiple tinyESCs at once (as in channel mixing).

Note for Spektrum users: The Spektrum transmitters do an odd thing with their mixing.  If your motors only run full speed when the stick is in a corner (meaning going straight ahead/reverse is *not* full speed), then you will want to calibrate the tinyESC just like the directions above, but make sure you only move the stick straight up and straight down, not moving the stick sideways at all. This will give you full speed for forward and reverse!

Is one motor faster than the other?: When calibrating the faster motor, also move the trim on the transmitter up (when you move the stick to the maximum) and down (when you move the stick to the minimum). Recenter the trim lever, center the stick and remove the calibrate jumper. This will limit the top speed of that motor. You may have to try different amounts of trim to get the motors to behave exactly the same.

 SparkFun has created a nice introduction video for the tinyESC now that they carry it:


The videos below show a tinyESC running a powerful "B62" 22mm diameter motor that draws over 5A stall at 12V.
On the left is 11.1V operation and on the right is 14.8V operation.
- At 11.1V, the tinyESC runs at full power even with over 2.3kg (5lbs) of weight on the wheel.
- At 14.8V, it takes 2.3kg (5lbs) before overcurrent protection kicks in. (Remember, that's 5lb per wheel!)

     


A quick video showing the difference between "coasting" a motor to a stop and the tinyESC's "braking" to a stop. tinyESCs give much more control when driving!

 
 
22 Product Reviews - Average rating 4.8 / 5 (Show All)

Click to review this product

Overpriced, break easily

- 14th February 2020

These are too over priced. They also begin to stop working easily. When they do work though, they are great! [FTR: If your tinyESC is not working properly you are welcome to contact us for support.]

Ultimate ESC for Insects!

- 03rd July 2018

I recently switched to the TinyESCs from the heavier Robot Power Scorpion minis. I was able to add much needed wheel guards with the weight savings and went undefeated to take 1st place at Clash of Bots 2018 with my Antweight Cherry Bomb. The TinyESC are smooth and super responsive. They are easy to install and calibrate. I'll be buying more for sure!

The only thing I haven't broken.

- 20th April 2018

Two years of competition in fairies and ants, and we've yet to manage to make one of these things fail. Amazing.

Best ESC on the market.

- 16th September 2016

Seriously. Your not going to find a smaller ESC for bots. Don't waste time, money or weight on anything else.

Easy To Use

- 08th August 2016

These work great with the silver spark motors. Had a driving robot in no time!

Calibrating the tinyESC for the Pixhawk Ch7 Switch

- 14th September 2015

A calibration tip for any maker trying to calibrate the tinyESC for use with a transmitter switch rather than a transmitter stick:

For my particular system, a Pixhawk controlled with the Mission Planner interface, I treated the extra motor I was controlling with the ESC as a servo. Instead of calibrating by moving the transmitter stick up and down, I changed the "off" value of the signal from 1100 to 1500 and back down to 1100.

A link for setting up the Ch7 switch on a Pixhawk: http://planner.ardupilot.com/wiki/common-camera-shutter-with-servo/

If using a switch rather than a stick, it is likely you can still calibrate within a program such as Mission Planner.


Best ESC on the market

- 24th February 2015

These are the smallest esc's I've ever worked with and they can take a beating. Just got second place with my fairy and antweight because of these. Decently price and great service/support.

An Antweight Game Changer

- 24th February 2015

Unbeatable for ease of use, reliability, size and weight. Incredibly easy to calibrate and diode protection means no more shorting out motor controllers by stupid mistakes. I use a pair of them in Satan's Segway; they nestle up quite nicely, wires and all into an unmodified 2" length of 1/2" NPT Pipe with a Silver Spark.

I have had some issues with self-calibrating during travel, but nothing during an actual match and FingerTech is quick to help with any problems you might have with them!


With you for life!

- 10th January 2014

I just wanted to post that I bought my first two tinyESCs years ago (like 2010) and they have been in a number of bots and are about the only thing that just keeps working! (I have burned through multiple other ESCs in that time!)
Keep up the good work FingerTech!


Tiny ESCs in a 6lber?!

- 22nd August 2013

At the 2013 PA Bot Blast I saw a pair of TinyESCs running a pair of Kitbots.com "1000 RPM motors" in a the 6 pound robot Precipitor. The wheel size was 1.5 inches and I think the battery was a 3 cell Lipo. While the robot didn't do any pushing, the controllers were still working through a full fight: http://youtu.be/J02_8R8-iGo

I would buy them if I build a beetle or ant. No question.


Great product

- 30th July 2012

I really like these speed controllers for both my 1 lb and 150 gram robots. They work great and they're really compact.

Perfect!

- 25th September 2011

I used the tinyESCs on my recent antweights and they worked flawlessly in both of my robots. I couldn't of asked for anything more out these guys. They are by far the smallest esc's you can get for your flea or ant weight. I am very happy with them and plan on using them on my next small robot!

Well thought out.

- 21st May 2011

When constructing my first ant I was left with the choice of hacking a larger speed control from another company apart and resoldering it or simply plugging in and soldering up the tinyESC. well the choice was obvious and today after a full competition and random off season shenanigans the tinyESC hasn't ever let me down finally someone released a speed control with auto-cutoff and overload protection!

The Perfect ESCs for 150g 'Bots

- 28th February 2010

The tinyESC is one of the best options for small bots. In the fairy weight class, having a compact and dense construction are essential to fitting the most power possible into such a small weight. The tinyESC is the most reliable speed controller I've found of such a small size and weight, and has been used successfully in both MH Robotics fairies.

In Mango Farmer (seen here- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUn1mdaxci8), with the tinyESCs, enough weight and space was saved compared to using a pair of old soz boards that there was enough space in the bot for a relatively massive 15 gram magnet, allowing it to easily dominate the competition in steel floored arenas.


15 wins, 0 losses using tinyESCs

- 15th February 2010

My antweight robot, Metroid, has been using tinyESCs since they have been available for sale. Metroid now has now fought in 15 matches and has never had an esc fail during combat.

Metroid is currently ranked #1 in the Robot Fighting League using FingerTech tinyESCs.

Here is a video of Metroid using tinyESCs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wibs-vcFPqY


Click to review this product

JST Connector (Female)

• 2-Pin JST-RCY  female connector.
• Wires are 20 gauge, 10cm (4in) long. 12cm including connector housing.
• High quality, high strand count silicon wire used gives higher amp throughput than standard wire of the same diameter. Connectors are plated for greater amp handling.


FingerTech Mini Terminal Block (pair)

• When you don't want to solder every wire connection, these push-wire terminal blocks are a convenient solution.
• Easily connect and disconnect up to four 18ga wires to a common connection point.
• Includes one red and one black terminal block for positive and negative (ground) connections.


FingerTech "Gold Spark" 16mm Gearmotor

FingerTech's Gold Spark motors are great for hobby use and in competition robots such as mini-sumo and line following.  If your application will be close to or exceeding the specified torque limits, check out our Silver Spark motors.

• The extra-long 3mm shaft is triple-supported internally so that wheels can be mounted directly.
• All-metal spur gear reduction gearhead mated to a Mabuchi FK-050 motor.
• 8 different gear ratios for a wide range of rpm and torque to choose from (see details).
• Only 28grams (0.99oz).
 

FingerTech "Silver Spark" 16mm Gearmotor

The Silver Spark line of motors has the same 16mm diameter as the Gold Sparks, but the gears are a larger pitch. This means less worrying about stripping teeth in your bigger or heavier applications!


• Extra-long 3mm shaft for mounting wheels directly with the option to use a bearing block for support on the wheel's far side.

• Same 11mm face mount pattern as Gold Spark motors.

• All-metal spur gearhead mated to a Mabuchi FK-050 motor.

• 9 different gear ratios for a wide range of rpm and torque to choose from.  One twice as fast, and one twice as slow as the Gold Sparks!

• Weights from 28 - 32grams (0.99 - 1.13oz). (see details)



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