These are the smallest and lightest motor controllers currently manufactured for RC hobby robotics. They take up very little space but can handle more than enough motor current for your robots.
Version 2.3 now with 50% higher continuous-current capacity! Thicker pcb traces shunt heat away from the driver chip faster - meaning you can run larger motors!
- Bi-directional brushed motor controller.
- Ultra-compact and lightweight.
- Undervoltage, overcurrent, overtemp protection.
- Internal BEC (battery eliminator circuit) provides 5V to receiver - no extra receiver battery required!
- Calibrate function allows precision driving.
- Status LEDs for both directions and calibration.
*The tinyESC v2 includes a Battery Eliminator Circuit. If there is no 5V supply present on the robot, this will power the radio receiver from the main battery. (If 5V already exists, pull the red 5V pin from the connector. We do not recommend running multiple BECs together.)
*If you are controlling the tinyESC from a powered device (like Arduino, etc) that runs at greater than 5V, make sure to disconnect the red wire or you will damage the tinyESC.
Battery Voltage: 6.5V - 36V
Motor Current: 1.5A continuous (forever). For robots, usable continuous current is 2.0A.
Max Current: 3A. For robots though, 5A-stall motors are easily handled by tinyESCs (see Videos tab).
BEC Output: 5V, 100mA (can run other electronics like receivers and other ESCs, but not motors or servos.)
BEC current is reduced for voltage above 8V - see graph: BEC Derating Graph
Circuit board size: 1.27x1.27x0.41cm (0.5x0.5x0.16”)
Outer heatshrink size: 1.35x2.28x0.48cm (0.53x0.90x0.19”) - calibration pins can be shortened or removed to reduce length
Weight with wires: 4.5grams (0.16oz)
*Includes 0.01uF capacitor. Solder between motor leads to filter motor noise and voltage spikes. (Not required for FingerTech Spark motors - they are high quality and do not generate dangerous voltage spikes.)
Currently there are three known ways to destroy a tinyESC. (So avoid them!)
1) Reverse battery voltage.
2) Applying battery voltage to the motor outputs.
3) Voltage spikes from noisy motors (not using the included capacitor).
SERVO Magazine Review: SERVO-2010-12-tinyESC-review.pdf
The videos below show a tinyESC running a powerful 22mm diameter motor that draws over 5A stall at 12V. On the left is 11.1V operation and on the right is 14.8V operation. At 11.1V, the tinyESC runs at full power even with over 2.3kg (5lbs) of weight on the wheel. At 14.8V, it takes 2.3kg (5lbs) before overcurrent protection kicks in. (Remember, that's 5lb per wheel!)
The tinyESC comes pre-calibrated with defaults, but if you wish to change the limits or center position:
-Plug tinyESC into unpowered radio receiver
-Jumper the two tinyESC header pins (see image
-Power up tinyESC
-Move transmitter stick to high and low limits
-Return transmitter stick to center
-Unplug the jumper
The center position is now “motor off” with full forward and full reverse speeds at the upper and lower limits.
*You may calibrate multiple tinyESCs at once (as in channel mixing).
*To revert to default calibration, do the above steps without moving the transmitter stick at all.
Note for Spektrum users:
The Spektrum transmitters do an odd thing with their mixing. If your motors only run full speed when the stick is in a corner (meaning going straight ahead/reverse is *not* full speed), then you will want to calibrate the tinyESC just like the directions above, but make sure you only move the stick straight up
and straight down
, not moving the stick sideways at all. This will give you full speed for forward and reverse!
Is one motor faster than the other?:
When calibrating the faster motor, also move the trim on the transmitter up (when you move the stick to the maximum) and down (when you move the stick to the minimum). Recenter the trim lever, center the stick and remove the calibrate jumper. This will limit the top speed of that motor. You may have to try different amounts of trim to get the motors to behave exactly the same.