Out of stock while we finish some upgrades!
Difficulty: Unassembled version requires soldering of four wires (to motors, no circuit boards), plugging in connectors, and screwing wheels and lid in place (hex wrenches included). Recommended for ages 10+ (6+ with a parent).
Note: It is possible to assemble without any soldering by tying the wires to the motor leads. It's just not as permanent.
kit comes with everything you need to get started in combat robotics.
- The custom-formed aluminum chassis has plenty of strength and space for additional components and upgrades.
- A 6-Channel radio transmitter and receiver pair leaves four channels free to add any active devices you desire.
- Two FingerTech "Silver Spark" 50:1 ratio gearmotors with 2" Lite Flite wheels provide both speed and pushing power.
- Two FingerTech "tinyESC" speed controllers translate the radio receiver commands into motor movement and provide 5V power to the radio.
- A sporty vacuum-formed lid keeps all the guts inside during a match.
kit is fully intended to be sawed, drilled, modified, and upgraded. Its base weight is only 325grams (11.46oz) leaving 129grams (4.55oz) for additional parts if entering the Antweight (1lb) weight class, or 675g (23.81oz) free if entering the Kilobot (1kg) weight class. (Weighed with 2x 9V batteries.)
Width: 17.1cm (6.75")
Length: 13.7cm (5.375")
Height (measured at rear when on wheels): 5.7cm (2.25")
Weight: 325grams (11.46oz) (weight is with 2x 9V batteries)
Large area of 16.8x6.0cm (6.625x2.375") to mount extra components, with a 3.2cm (1.25") tall block in the center to fit servos or weapon motors.
||HK-T6A 2.4GHz 6-Channel transmitter. (Optional)
||HK-TR6A 2.4GHz 6-Channel receiver. (Optional)
||17gauge (0.043") thick, 5052 alloy Aluminum punched and formed baseplate (pic). Has mounting holes for motors and lid.
||2x 50:1 Silver Spark Gearmotors
||2x tinyESCs translate the radio receiver commands into motor movement and power the radio receiver.
||2x 2" Lite Flites are soft and grippy.
||2x Lite Hubs are the lightest and easiest way to attach wheels to your motors.
||A switch/charge jack that you unplug to turn on. Plug can be used for charging rechargeable batteries if you plan to upgrade.
||Custom 0.040" thick vacuum-formed polycarbonate lid (pic) keeps all the wires and components inside the robot. (Not recommended to be the only armor against weaponed opponents.)
||Four 2-56x0.1875" screws for mounting the motors. Eight 4-40x0.25" screws for fastening lid. Two 4-40 setscrews for Lite Hubs.
Two hex wrenches included for tightening screws and setscrews.
||Detailed instructions with many pictures and tips for getting more from your robot. (Download here)
-One or two 9V batteries (two doubles run-time). We recommend Duracell Procell (PC1604)
for over two hours of run time and bursts of 12A (using 2 batteries). Procell's can run a HXT12K servo
at 1.5A continuous (while driving) for well over 15 minutes. (Robot matches are 3 minutes each.)
-Transmitter requires 8 AA batteries.
-An optional programming cable
can be used to reprogram the functions on the transmitter. Vipers come programmed for mixed driving (most common) but if you prefer tank-style driving you will need to reprogram.
• "Unassembled" comes as parts. Everything is ready for assembly but needs to be soldered and connected (includes detailed instructions).
• "Fully Assembled" comes as pictured. Battery connectors, on/off switch and motors are soldered in place. Lite Hubs are glued into wheels. Motors are mounted and lid is attached (includes same detailed instructions). Just tighten wheels, plug in batteries and drive!